Finishing...

I have torqued the ring nut and put everything back together; I have also lubed the joints (The rest was lubed last time I had the car).

The book calls for 40 m/Kg (289 ft/lbs) torque on the lower nut. Well, the nut fails before I could reach this torque. Due to the diameter of the nut and stud, I was very skeptical about this toque. I have seen errors in the books in the past. I've replaced the nut and used blue Loctite; I went to 200 ft/lbs then to 250 but stopped before the click. Between the cone, which I've cleaned with lacquer thinner, the torque and the blue Loctite, this is not going anywhere.

The rear view mirror in its new location.

The car is finished.

Front cylinder boot and lower ball joint...

Looking at the yellow paint this boot might have been original. Since the car was off the road for 27 years, it is not impossible.

Done.

The right lower ball joint was noisy. If you can move it by hand it is obviously bad. On the video, I have turned the hub upside down to work on it.

It is difficult to push the metal away from the ring with the hub right side up. The book calls forremoving the hub completely but this car has the older style tri-axe, so I've disconnected the tie rod and upper ball joint in order to put the hub upside down.

It is difficult to push out the metal completely and if it is not one can damage the thread. I've learned my lesson, I use a Dremell tool to help removing the metal. Since I will remove metal from the ring (Inside), the tightening ring will not fall at the same spot and I'll be able to bent new metal on the grooves.

After removing .25mm of metal in the inside ring, I put it back together. I have torqued the upper ball joint to spec, put back the tie rod (The yellow tape reminds me to torque it) and I have torqued by hand the lower ball joint to go for a road test. If it doesn't bind and it is quiet, I can put it apart again and torque it to spec, then dust cover, lube and finish the job.

Carburetor and leaks...

I had 2 carbs to choose from, one for a BVH (Left) and one for a BVM (Right). Since the car is a 5 speed BVM I took the one on the right.

The needle valve from the BVH carb was better.

Checking how good the needle valve works.

Made a gasket...

... and replaced the fuel filter.

Small leak at the rear right.

The connector was loose. I'll keep an eye on it.

Major leak on the front right. An inspection through the grease hole confirmed about a bad cylinder boot.

Next: Ball joint.