Looking at the yellow paint this boot might have been original. Since the car was off the road for 27 years, it is not impossible.
Done.
The right lower ball joint was noisy. If you can move it by hand it is obviously bad. On the video, I have turned the hub upside down to work on it.
It is difficult to push the metal away from the ring with the hub right side up. The book calls forremoving the hub completely but this car has the older style tri-axe, so I've disconnected the tie rod and upper ball joint in order to put the hub upside down.
It is difficult to push out the metal completely and if it is not one can damage the thread. I've learned my lesson, I use a Dremell tool to help removing the metal. Since I will remove metal from the ring (Inside), the tightening ring will not fall at the same spot and I'll be able to bent new metal on the grooves.
After removing .25mm of metal in the inside ring, I put it back together. I have torqued the upper ball joint to spec, put back the tie rod (The yellow tape reminds me to torque it) and I have torqued by hand the lower ball joint to go for a road test. If it doesn't bind and it is quiet, I can put it apart again and torque it to spec, then dust cover, lube and finish the job.
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